Exploring Cappadocia’s Underground Cities: Derinkuyu vs Kaymaklı

Underground cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı

Beyond the balloons and rocks above ground, Cappadocia also hides fascinating worlds below ground. 

The region is home to dozens of ancient underground cities, and the two most famous ones open to visitors are Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı.

These multi-level cities were excavated thousands of years ago (some passages possibly dating to Hittite times, ~2000 BC) and expanded during early Christian and Byzantine eras.

Locals used them as hideouts during invasions – entire communities could live underground for months. Today, you can tour portions of these subterranean complexes.

Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı are part of the UNESCO World Heritage site and are absolute must-sees if you’re into history or adventure.

Derinkuyu Underground City

Derinkuyu is the deepest underground city in Cappadocia – about 85 meters (280 feet) deep, with eight levels accessible to tourists.

In its heyday, it could shelter as many as 20,000 people (including their animals) in times of danger.

Walking through it is mind-blowing – like an entire town carved into the earth.

What you’ll see

Visitors can go through tunnels and stairways to view kitchens, storage rooms, wineries, stables, living quarters, a huge ventilation shaft, and even a chapel on one of the lowest levels.

The rooms are dimly lit and connected by narrow passageways; often, you’ll have to bend or crouch while moving through tunnels (tall people, take care!).

One famous feature is the massive round stone doors that could roll in place to seal off passages – ancient security doors to block invaders. There are informative signs explaining each area.

The air below stays cool and slightly damp. If you pause and turn off any audio guide, you can even feel a slight breeze from the ventilation shafts – an impressive engineering feat for its time. Touring Derinkuyu feels like being in an ancient bunker city.

Experience

Derinkuyu’s passages can be steep and claustrophobic for some. The corridors between levels are quite narrow and low – one in particular is a long, steep tunnel where you must duck your head the whole way.

Those uncomfortable in tight spaces might find it challenging. However, relief comes when you reach the larger rooms like the church or winery, which are more open.

The deepest level accessible has a large hall (the church), which is fairly roomy – interestingly, the lowest level is also the broadest, helping anyone with claustrophobia feel better by the bottom.

Guides often point out how fresh the air is thanks to the ventilation shaft that goes up to the ground surface.

Typically, you go down one route and come up via a different path, so you see other sections on the return climb. The entire visit might take 45 minutes to an hour.

Derinkuyu is included in the Green Tour, or you can drive yourself. It’s about 35 km (22 mi) south of Göreme.

Are you wondering how to visit Cappadocia and cover all the highlights within your itinerary plan? Check out our 2-day, 3-day, or 5-day visit to Cappadocia.

Kaymaklı Underground City

Kaymaklı is shallower, and more spread out. It descends about 40 meters, with four levels open to visitors (archaeologists believe more levels exist below).

Instead of going extremely deep, Kaymaklı extends wider horizontally than Derinkuyu. It’s the largest in terms of width, though not depth.

The tunnels in Kaymaklı are generally wider and less steep, making them slightly more accessible if tight spaces bother you.

What to see

In Kaymaklı, you’ll walk through a maze of twisty corridors connecting caves that served as kitchens (look for blackened ceilings from smoke), storage cellars, living areas, etc.

Kaymaklı has many artifacts and signage explaining the rooms, and it’s well-lit. One highlight is the ancient winery and wine press area – Cappadocians made wine underground.

There are massive stone doors here too. You’ll notice Kaymaklı’s tunnels are more steeply inclined in parts and sometimes narrower in height than Derinkuyu’s.

Kaymaklı’s passages can feel quite low and require crouching, so don’t assume it’s a breeze – it can still trigger claustrophobia. 

However, the rooms are at closer intervals, so you frequently emerge into open chambers.

Kaymaklı feels like a warren of small rooms and short tunnels, whereas Derinkuyu feels like big levels connected by a few long tunnels.

Experience

The atmosphere in Kaymaklı is a bit different – because it’s the first underground city opened to tourists (in 1964), it’s well-prepared for visits.

It tends to be less crowded than Derinkuyu, and the route through it can be a little less strenuous (there are still lots of bending and stairs, but not as many levels).

You can imagine families living here – you see storage jars, niches for lamps, etc.

It’s said Kaymaklı housed around 3,000–5,000 people at once (much smaller capacity than Derinkuyu) and was used extensively in Byzantine times as a refuge.

The site is about 20km from Göreme, so it is slightly closer than Derinkuyu.

Not many tours take you to this underground city, but if you are interested, check out this 6-hour tour which includes Kaymakli.

Derinkuyu vs. Kaymaklı – Which to choose?

Ideally, do both if you have time and aren’t extremely claustrophobic. 

They are only 10km apart and somewhat connected (there’s even a tunnel said to link them, though not accessible).

If you must pick one, here is our recommendation:

Derinkuyu is more impressive for its sheer depth and the “wow” factor of how large it is vertically (the thought of 20,000 people below ground is mind-blowing). It’s a bit more famous and can be more crowded.

Go here if you want the biggest underground adventure, and don’t mind the narrow tunnels.

Kaymaklı is a bit easier to navigate, less crowded, and gives a more “living city” vibe with its network of rooms. Kaymaklı also has ample informational signs, which is great if touring without a guide.

In terms of differences, Derinkuyu is deeper, and Kaymaklı is wider. Derinkuyu might feel more intense due to depth, and Kaymaklı might feel more intimate. Both are engineering marvels.

Some guided tours include one or the other (Green Tour usually includes Derinkuyu, while some tours opt for Kaymaklı to avoid crowds).

Derinkuyu vs. Kaymaklı Comparison

AspectDerinkuyuKaymaklı
DepthDeeper (~85 meters)Shallower (~40 meters)
SizeVertical, 8 levelsWider, 4 levels
PopularityMore famousLess famous
CrowdsMore crowdedLess crowded
Best forBiggest underground adventure, deep explorationLiving city vibe, easier navigation
ExperienceImpressive depth, narrow tunnelsMore spacious, less intense
AccessibilityChallenging for claustrophobia, narrow passagesMore accessible, suitable for families
Guided ToursUsually included in Green TourSometimes included in tours to avoid crowds

Tips for visiting underground cities

Wear good shoes (the stone floors can be slippery or uneven). A hat can save your head from bumps on low ceilings if you’re tall.

Go slowly and mind your footing – it’s easy to trip when looking around in the dim light. If you feel uncomfortable at any point, you can turn around (though most routes are one-way loops).

In summer, the cool underground is a nice break from heat; in winter, you’ll actually find it warmer below than outside! Lastly, try to go early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid peak tour group times, as it can get congested in the narrow tunnels at midday.

Visiting these cities is a highlight for many because it directly connects to how ancient people lived and protected themselves.

Imagine entire communities cooking, working, and sleeping in these caves – it’s history you can walk through. Don’t miss at least one underground city on your Cappadocia trip!

Photo of author
Researched & written by
Mary Bency thrives on the beauty of starry skies, the rhythm of poetry, and the thrill of cultural exploration. As a traveler with a deep curiosity for history and hidden gems, she immerses herself in the cultures and traditions of every place she visits. She is passionate about astronomy and poetry. Inspired by the destinations she explores, Mary writes, capturing their essence in verse. Mary's natural curiosity and knack for connecting with people allow her to infuse her writing with a dynamic and relatable perspective, engaging her stories. Favorite travel movie: The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. Next destination: Chefchaouen, Morocco.

Leave a Comment